Eariler today, a two minute job of shaping these two dowels to fit in the Shoulder Hydraulic Units, to secure them in place.
Of course, yet to see if this idea will work or whether they need to be metal pins ???
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August 31, 2011
Shoulder Disc Spacers with silver tape :-(
When I first posted up about my Shoulder Spacer Disc build, I didn't get round to actually posting this Post up, dated May 2011.
........Applied silver insulation tape on the leg spacer disc, as had some in the garage. This method has been used to great effect. But not so on my un-smoothed wood, as like mine! Decided to take it off as it looked poo! You could see the wood 'imperfections' So pealed it off & applied wood filler to smooth it out. I then sanded, primed and will spray up silver.
This post was missed out previously.
........Applied silver insulation tape on the leg spacer disc, as had some in the garage. This method has been used to great effect. But not so on my un-smoothed wood, as like mine! Decided to take it off as it looked poo! You could see the wood 'imperfections' So pealed it off & applied wood filler to smooth it out. I then sanded, primed and will spray up silver.
This post was missed out previously.
August 30, 2011
R5's Center Leg, Shoulder Disc & Body Skirt
After a two week holiday with the family, it was time to catch up on R5.
Concentrated on sanding, fillering, sanding some more and a bit more filling........ you get the picture. Bought some grey primer. I prefer this to white as it shows up imperfections more easier to see. Also bought some more of Tesco's own wood filler. The centre leg is looking good now.
Whilst the leg was drying etc I did some touching up on the skirt section of R5. Applied filler & sanded, then sprayed with grey primer . Then re-filler imperfections. Tried to re-strain from making it look to good as R5 is supposed to be well used! lol. Time spent about an 1hr total.
I then did a bit more work on the second Shoulder Disc, more filling and sanding:
skirt and leg
Concentrated on sanding, fillering, sanding some more and a bit more filling........ you get the picture. Bought some grey primer. I prefer this to white as it shows up imperfections more easier to see. Also bought some more of Tesco's own wood filler. The centre leg is looking good now.
Whilst the leg was drying etc I did some touching up on the skirt section of R5. Applied filler & sanded, then sprayed with grey primer . Then re-filler imperfections. Tried to re-strain from making it look to good as R5 is supposed to be well used! lol. Time spent about an 1hr total.
Skirt with grey primer. |
skirt and leg
August 08, 2011
R5's Centre Leg, curved part
First I had one idea about how to make these, then worried about the extra weight. Saw an idea for building the curved ankle pieces. This way didn't work out to well for me, obviously I must of done something wrong lol, so have gone back to the solid block idea. [see previous post]
The weight of the centre leg as it is = 1385 grams
The curved pieces weigh = grams ( 110kg each ) which compared to the leg weight above.... I don't know what I was worried about lol.
Using a saw I cut the excess material off and then started to shape with a large course file. As this is my first attempt it's not perfect lol, but with a bit of wood filler, it will look better.
Centre leg work. Spent around 2 1/2hrs this weekend. Counter drilled holes and screwed the first curved pieces onto the centre leg. Had to fill in gap with a strip of wood [2nd picture above]. Then started on with the wood filler. Have a lot to fill as the saw & jigsaw cuts werent that straight. The filler should correct this.
Bought Tesco's own wood filler £1.99 a tube. I'll be using this on the centre leg. I'll also be comparing it against the previous (smaller & more expensive) Ronseal tube. The tube paste was thicker & dryer than the Ronseal and took longer to dry hard!
Then I cut a piece for the other curved section. Drilled, filler etc.
The piece of white board at the bottom, is a guide for how much I have to build up the filler to curve this piece.
The weight of the centre leg as it is = 1385 grams
The curved pieces weigh = grams ( 110kg each ) which compared to the leg weight above.... I don't know what I was worried about lol.
countersunk securing of curved sections |
gap filled with a strip of wood |
Filler applied |
Using a saw I cut the excess material off and then started to shape with a large course file. As this is my first attempt it's not perfect lol, but with a bit of wood filler, it will look better.
Centre leg work. Spent around 2 1/2hrs this weekend. Counter drilled holes and screwed the first curved pieces onto the centre leg. Had to fill in gap with a strip of wood [2nd picture above]. Then started on with the wood filler. Have a lot to fill as the saw & jigsaw cuts werent that straight. The filler should correct this.
Bought Tesco's own wood filler £1.99 a tube. I'll be using this on the centre leg. I'll also be comparing it against the previous (smaller & more expensive) Ronseal tube. The tube paste was thicker & dryer than the Ronseal and took longer to dry hard!
Then I cut a piece for the other curved section. Drilled, filler etc.
Curve piece no2. |
The piece of white board at the bottom, is a guide for how much I have to build up the filler to curve this piece.
August 03, 2011
Shoulder Stabilier update 1
Started on making the other components needed to build the Stabilisers.
Drilled out the main body to depth, it was a tight fit, but the bar fitted into the holes, and was then cut to length required.
I think I'll leave the angle until last, just in case.
Just a quick update, here are the three so far....
Drilled out the main body to depth, it was a tight fit, but the bar fitted into the holes, and was then cut to length required.
I think I'll leave the angle until last, just in case.
Just a quick update, here are the three so far....
August 01, 2011
Shoulder Hydraulics no2 completed
Forgot to mention, that I'd also completed the second Shoulder Hydraulic last week too.
Shoulder Stabaliser out of aluminium this time.......
Started making the Shoulder Stabilier's out of aluminium. Turned down a length of material and then straight knurled it all the way along.
Then I added the grooves (not to spec. but close enough)
Then parted each one off.
Then I added the grooves (not to spec. but close enough)
Then parted each one off.
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